My Philosophy About Shooting Jewelry… And how I shoot it.

From an economic point of view, consider that Jewelry product photography is usually for a limited number of inventory items. To maximize your profit margins, your marketing contributions or dollar spend per item should be limited unless you have many if the same items to sell.

Should the item have a significant profit margin built into the selling price, then it may make sense to invest the money in great image editing.

To produce flawless jewelry photography, you need to do significant editing in Photoshop. This may include painting the item with a gradient to cover all the tarnish marks, dirt and scratches. This work can be very time consuming.

To reduce your production cost, take good product shots in the onset. Take images with a clean background and limit the maximum resolution your customers can see. The customer does not need to see all of the product’s imperfection to make a buying decision.

To shoot, I recommend using a ton of light. This is to increase your depth of field. I also shoot at a high F-stop like 16 or more. Don’t use ambient light with a long exposure as you will get issues with camera shake or chromatic aberration. Use strobes for a quick powerful burst of light. My strobes are 600 watts +.

If you want LOTS of depth where the focus is sharp from front to back, you may need to consider focus stacking in Photoshop.

As time is often in short supply, I don’t focus stack most jewelry product shots. Instead, I prefer a little diffraction to a short depth of field; as a result, I will shoot as high as F25.

I use a light meter to measure the light to adjust my camera accordingly. I also use a grey card to adjust my white balance to insure accurate product colour.

Finally, I use a 105 mm macro lens. This is the same glass I use to shoot insects. A good macro lens will help you catch incredible product detail.

Economical jewelry photography Toronto

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Editing jewelry photography Toronto